Musical Contribution to Catt-Trax 3 by Jules Rendell - One Day

Last summer I had the great fortune to meet Jules Rendell when she was performing on a ship crossing the Atlantic Ocean. She is a singer and soulwriter with amazing talent. Have a listen to Jules' wonderful voice & musical contribution to the Catt-Trax 3 journey. Enjoy! Thanks so much Jules! :)

Heading Home ... but there is More to Come :)

It is late afternoon on the 14th of June here in Bali, Indonesia... I have made a valiant effort to catch up with my Facebook and Blog posts ... and will soon head to the airport for my lengthy journey home. Thanks to all of you who have followed the Catt-Trax 3 journey ... there will be a few more things added (like more music!). Be well and see some of you soon!

Tangkoko Nature Reserve & the Sulawesi Crested Black Macaque

Sulawesi Crested Black Macaque, a Critically Endangered Species

More to come... my battery is about to die :)

Coral Triangle Day – Manado, Indonesia

With Dr. John Tasirin, Sam Ratulangi University, Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

When I taught the Ecology short courses for the CIDA sponsored Eastern Indonesian Universities Development Project (EIUDP) I always had an Indonesian counterpart to help with the course (translation, course content, labs, etc). My teaching counterpart for the course taught at Patimurra University in Ambon in the amazing Moluccas Islands of Eastern Indonesia was none other than John Tasirin. At that time John had just completed his Master’s degree at the University of New Brunswick (supported by CIDA). John went on to complete his PhD in Tasmania and is now back in Indonesia teaching at Sam Ratulangi University in Manado at the northern tip of the amoeba shaped island of Sulawesi.

Media for Coral Triangle Day, Manado, Indonesia

John has done amazing things in the past 15 years and continues to work tirelessly to increase awareness of the flora, fauna and biodiversity values of north Sulawesi and Indonesia. He is very highly regarded by everyone from students to local politicians as everyone I talked to praised him for the work he does for conservation and for Manado. Well done my friend!

One of the projects John has had his fingers in recently has been the planning for a project that he and a multitude of partners have been working on for months called the Coral Triangle Day.
I had heard about the Coral Triangle in discussions with staff at the WWF office in Singapore very early in my journey. The Coral Triangle is a six million km2 area that covers waters of Indonesia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, Malaysia, the Solomon Islands and Timor-Leste. The ocean waters and the sea life within them support a human population of about 120 million people.

This biodiversity hotspot has 75% of all known coral species (thus the name the ‘Coral Triangle’), 3000 species of reef fish and six of the seven marine  turtle species (the only one missing is the Kemp's Ridley which is critically endangered and only breeds on the shores of the Gulf of Mexico). The Coral Triangle is also the source of 25% of the global tuna catch - a multi-billion dollar industry. Indonesia is a key component of the Coral Triangle with its 17,000 islands and over 80,000 kms of coastline.

I was invited by John to take part in the Coral Triangle Day celebrations just west of Manado in North Sulawesi, Indonesia. It was an event that seemed to be taken right out of the Mark Angelo book for community involvement in conservation issues. There were politicians, with media in tow, mangrove plantings, restoration of coral reefs and a beach cleanup competition for youth. Pick up the most garbage on the beach and you win a prize!

These events are so important as they involve the entire community – from the kids and their families to NGOs and academic institutions to politicians (who make key decisions that can affect conservation and ecosystem health). I was so impressed with the event and even got to plant my own mangrove (I want to go back to ensure it is still there … years from now!).

One of the NGOs involved in the event was WWF. WWF has selected the Coral Triangle as a conservation priority. The staff of WWF in Indonesia, Singapore and other countries within the Coral Triangle are driving positive change with the tuna, live reef fish and tourism industries to curb degradation of the marine environment. The objective is to have a healthy environment and a thriving tourism industry that already sits at 12 billion/year.

Examples include: working to change the types of hooks used in fishing, promoting the creation of marine protected areas particularly around critical spawning grounds and encouraging citizens to make responsible choices in restaurants (in terms of the fish they choose to buy).

Well done John and all partners involved in the Coral Triangle Day!

Beautiful end to a fabulous day in Manado, Indonesia

Kendari Fish Market – Hello Misterrrrrrrrrrrrrr

I love markets … particularly those with great photo opportunities. Patterns, colours, activity, smiling faces... all so photogenic. I remember visiting the Kendari fish market when I taught at Haluoleo University close to 20 years ago. At that time I remember being amazed at the diversity of fish (in terms of species, size, colours, etc.) for sale!

Yesterday my friend Dr. Andi Khaeruni from UNHALU offered to take me to the main fish market as I was curious to see how it had changed in almost 20 years. I was pleased to see that most of the species that I remember seeing years ago were still there (a notable no show was the lobster).

It is important to note that fish is the key source of protein for many Indonesians. It is cheaper than meat and easily accessible. At least it has been. Some species have increased in cost about 30x in the past 10 years making it difficult for some locals to buy fish.

There were some key differences from 20 years ago when it comes to meeting the demand for fresh fish:
-    Fishermen have to travel much longer distances to catch the fish
-    Fishermen have to use a lot more fuel to travel these distances
-    The fishermen are  greater risk of mishap at sea as they take their  smaller boats further distances
-    Some fishermen have shifted to using larger boats… which adds safety and also increases the distance they can travel (and can bring back more fish)

Another difference is that some of the fish being sold is farmed fish. Yes, there are fish farms in Indonesia… and lots of them. Indonesia exports shrimp, fish and seaweed and the government last year indicated its intention to “make Indonesia the world’s leading fish producer by 2015 and have thus targeted fantastic fish production levels every year”. They plan to do this through traditional fishing and aquaculture. See my previous post ‘Fish Farming – How to Feed the Planet!?’ to see some thoughts on that.

I spent over an hour walking through the stalls and couldn’t walk too far without hearing the phrase that brings back so many memories from my earlier trips to Indonesia… ‘Hello Misterrrrrrrrrrr’.

Indonesians have an amazing r-roll that would make a Spanish ‘r’ seem typical of the Queen's English. That Hello Misterrrrr phrase it one that puts a smile on my face whenever I hear it ... whether it is a small kid in the street or a grown man shopping with his wife at the Kendari Fish Market!

Hello Misterrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr :)

Kendari – Universitas Haluoleo (UNHALU)

Course Participants in the Ecology Short Course at UNHALU in 1995

When I was just a young lad I was given an amazing opportunity to teach overseas for a project sponsored by the Canadian International Development Agency called the Eastern Indonesian Universities Development Project. The objectives of the project were to strengthen basic science teaching and research with the ultimate objective of contributing to sustainable development in Indonesia. EIUDP was jointly funded by the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA) and the Government of Indonesia.

Eating Ikan Bakar (Grilled Fish) in Kendari

My involvement with the EIUDP came at the tail end of the 10 year project but my brief association was rich in learning for me (and hopefully course participants as well). I taught a series of short courses in Ecology at three different universities in Eastern Indonesia in 1995 and 1996 and also facilitated seminars on sustainable development. Chris Dagg, the Director of the EIUDP program, wrote that “the purpose of the Education for Sustainable Development (ESD) component of the Project is to introduce sustainable development ideas and approaches into teaching and research at the four Member Universities through their basic science courses”.

Some UNHALU faculty who were EIUDP scholars or participants

I had the great fortune of teaching at three of the member universities: Pattimura University in Ambon, Cenderawasih University in Jayapura, Irian Jaya and my first (and favorite) Haluoleo University in Kendari the capital city of the province of South-east Sulawesi.

Presenting to UNHALU students and faculty

I have kept in touch with the faculty (the course participants were not students but younger lecturers) who were participants in the Ecology short courses that I taught and wanted to return to Kendari to see how they (and the university) were doing. Has the EIUDP been effective in increasing the capacity of Indonesia to develop in a sustainable way?

Back in the mid-90s all that was required to be a lecturer at the universities in eastern Indonesia was an S1 degree, approximately equivalent to a Bachelor’s degree in North America. In fact only one of the participants in my short course had an MSc degree the rest had their S1.

To return and see that so many of them have gone on to do their MSc and PhDs degrees was awesome. As they toured me around the campus showing the new equipment and discussing the research projects they are working on I could sense their increased confidence and abilities.

Me with a few UNHALU students

My visit to Kendari was short but the time was filled with activities: meetings and discussion with past short course participants and CIDA scholars; a visit to the newly established Wallaceae Museum; the required meals of Ikan Bakar (grilled fish) and I also presented my seminar on conservation and sustainability to a great group of UNHALU students and faculty sponsored by the Agrotechnology Department of the Agriculture Faculty.

Thank you to all of you for making me feel so welcome! And  for doing so much for your students, UNHALU and the future of Indonesia!

Four UNHALU Faculty today who were 1995 Short Course Participants

Robyn Worcester - BCIT FWR Grad Making a Difference for Wildlife & People

Robyn Worcester is the Conservation Programs Manager with the Stanley Park Ecology Society (SPES) in Vancouver. Robyn is also a grad of the BCIT Fish, Wildlife & Recreation program. We are so proud of the amazing work she does. Here are some of Robyn's thoughts on the importance of urban parks and the values they provide to people and wildlife. SPES is always looking for volunteers so if you want to help out in your own backyard, contact SPES! :) Thanks Robyn!

A Bali Sunset - Indonesia

I have to admit I find it hard to resist photographing sunsets. I don't know how many thousands of images I have of the sun dipping below the horizon in many regions of the world ... but I have to say the colours of a Bali sunset are amongst the most vibrant I have seen anywhere. 

I chose to enter into Indonesia via Bali (rather than the capital city of Jakarta) partly because I knew I would be able to take in one sunset before leaving for Sulawesi. 

Here are a few images from a lovely coucher de soleil.

Mom and babe taking in a Kuta Beach sunset

A sunset soccer match on a Bali beach

Good Morning Vietnam - Mekong Delta

June 1, 2012: I woke up yesterday morning in a floating hotel in the Mekong /Delta. The day before yesterday I had taken a boat from Phnom Penh, Cambodia down to the border with Vietnam then (once through the border formalities) continued to the Vietnamese town of Chau Doc.

Chau Doc is a bustling riverside town a stone’s throw away from the Cambodian border. The town does not seem to get a lot of western tourists other than the backpack traveler crowd using the river border crossing between Phnom Penh, Cambodia and Ho Chi Min City (aka Saigon) Vietnam. Upon arriving at the floating hotel I dumped my bag in my room and hired a pedi-cab for a one hour tour of the city. It was great! I just love exploring new places and seeing what makes a place tick. I think my pedi-cab was pretty pleased to have me as a fare… I think because I gave him a pretty handsome fee ($1.50) for the hour. 

After a reasonable night’s sleep and a very early breakfast I went out on a short visit to a fish farm which in addition to Catfish surprisingly raises both Sea Bass and Snapper. I say surprising because Sea Bass and Snapper are also raised in the ocean fish farm pens in Malaysia that I visited a few weeks ago. I thought those two species were exclusively marine but I obviously have some more learning to do about fish farming in Asia.

The fishing industry in Vietnam has been booming (to say the least) in the past 20 years. In fact with a twenty four-fold increase in fishery exports since the 1990’s, Vietnam now ranks among the top ten seafood exporters in the world. Much of the growth in production can be attributed to continued expansion in aquaculture, which increased from a 30 percent share of the sector in 1990 to 52 percent in 2010. In 2010 fishery production created more than 5 billion US dollars in export revenue, about half of which came directly from fish farming.

Catfish are the ‘money fish’ of the Vietnamese aquaculture industry in the Mekong Delta accounting for close to 25% of the total export earnings. Shrimp is the big one though as it contributes over 40% to the fisheries exports for Vietnam. The farming of shrimp is a whole other story of ecological devastation with the massive conversion of mangrove forests to create shrimp farms. But… that is another story.

After the visit to the fish farm I spent the rest of the morning exploring the river and also stopped to see a Cham village which was filled with gorgeous smiling faces!

The Cham people are an ethnic group of South-east Asia. Some Cham are Hindu and others are Muslim. The village I visited in northern Vietnam was Muslim (complete with a large mosque). They are a minority in Vietnam as the majority of residents are Buddhist.

The Cham are remnants of the Kingdom of Champa (7th to 18th centuries) and there are pockets of this ethnic group in Cambodia and Vietnam with a small number in Thailand.

On my short visit they were incredibly open and friendly.

You may say I'm a dreamer - IMAGINE

Imagine there's no heaven
It's easy if you try
No hell below us
Above us only sky
Imagine all the people living for today

Imagine there's no countries
It isn't hard to do
Nothing to kill or die for
And no religion too
Imagine all the people living life in peace

You, you may say
I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one
I hope some day you'll join us
And the world will be as one

Imagine no possessions
I wonder if you can
No need for greed or hunger
A brotherhood of man
Imagine all the people sharing all the world

You, you may say
I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one
I hope some day you'll join us
And the world will live as one

Land Mines - 6 Million Still in Cambodia

While driving along one of the roads in Cambodia I kept seeing bright red signs posted in various locations. After a closer look I saw that these signs are indicating that there are live land mines still in the area. There are an estimated 6 million active land mines around Cambodia (left primarily by the Khmer Rouge upon their retreat into northern Cambodia in the late 70s).

Since that time more than 40 000 Cambodian people have suffered injuries as the result of these land mines. That is an average of nearly 40 victims a week (and they are still happening today!). What is even more troubling is that it is often the poorest of the poor (eg. farmers) that get seriously injured or killed. The families of the land mine victim live at poverty levels almost three times lower than those with disabilities due to other causes.

Land mine victim in Siem Reap, Cambodia

The Killing Fields – Cambodia

Skulls at the Killing Fields Genocide Memorial

I don’t know how many times in the past week that I have read and re-read the political history of Cambodia, starting from the period of French rule, to its independence from France in 1953 which was the start of the reign of King Norodom Sihanouk, to the military coup of 1970 to the atrocities of the Khmer Rouge that took place from April 17, 1975 to January 7, 1979 … and yet I still cannot seem to understand how it all played out and how such atrocities could be allowed to happen.

Here is my understanding of the history of Cambodia... apologies for any errors!

Cheung Ek Genocide Memorial

In 1970, when King Norodom Sihanouk was out of the country a military coup occurred ousting the King as Prime Minister of the country and installing General Lon Nol as the self-proclaimed President of the newly created Khmer Republic.

The early years of the 1970s were tumultuous as a civil war erupted between Cambodian forces and a leftist political party dubbed the Khmer Rouge (Khmer = Cambodian & Rouge = red in French referring to Cambodian communists).

Fighting occurred throughout the country during the civil war and no doubt it must have been confusing for the citizens to figure out which side was the good guys and which was the bad guys!

During the rule of General Lon Nol life had gotten worse for the Cambodian citizens and some considered the Khmer Rouge as liberators from oppression and in fact cheered when Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh on the 17th of April, 1975.

But the tears soon changed to tears of hunger, pain and death. Pol Pot had a vision of an extreme self-supporting communist society where the average citizen (farmers and villagers) worked the fields and fed the country. A country of equality was the vision.

But… Pol Pot went a little off his rocker (to put it lightly) killing anyone he thought did not support his goal. An estimated 3 million Cambodians were killed by other Cambodians (the Khmer Rouge). Here are a few thoughts recorded during my visit to the Killing Fields on the outskirts of Phnom Penh.

Destiny Rescue Cambodia – Making Life Better for Those Who Most Need It

Three objectives I set right from the start for my CT3 journey were: 1) to share with words and images (on the CT3 Blog and Facebook pages) some of the amazing regions of Asia that I explore; 2) learn and share my learning about conservation and sustainability related issues I encounter and 3) meet and share the stories of people & groups back home and abroad who are making the world a better place.  My hope is that what I share will inspire others to do things to contribute to a healthy planet and a healthy future for all of us. We can all make a difference.

I have learned so much on this journey including gaining a better appreciation for the importance of education, good health, clean water, global ‘peace’ and the alleviation of poverty if we truly want to realize a sustainable world. Things are changing so rapidly as we add more and more people to the planet.

Many things came together for me during my visit to Cambodia, one of the poorest yet richest nations in Asia. Poor economically but rich in culture and people. I was also humbled on a visit to an organization that has been working to help the underprivileged, particularly children, in Phnom Penh.

The organization is called Destiny Rescue. I have to thank some Rotary friends in the US and Australia for making the connection for me (thanks Nancy and Susanne!).

Imagine working in a challenging career for 25 years of your life, raising two kids on your own, going back to university as a mature student (at the same time as one of your children!), creating things worthy of a patent and that could put you in a financial position that would keep you comfortable for the rest of your life … and then saying, “No. I want to give back something. I have more than I need already and there are so many people in the world who are less fortunate than I and who have nothing.” That is what Chris, the Country Manager for the Cambodia arm of Destiny Rescue, did earlier this year.

Destiny Rescue is an international NGO established to help abused and sexually exploited children. In Phnom Penh, Destiny Rescue operates an education centre and a care home where underprivileged and exploited children can get an education, receive medical care, and feel safe and loved by caring and compassionate volunteers and staff. Chris left her career in Australia to volunteer for a year (maybe longer) in some of the poorest areas of the city.

Chris took me to meet some of the children at the Destiny Rescue facilities in Phnom Penh some of whom have been raped, others beaten and forced into prostitution and sadly one or two now have HIV. Absolutely heartbreaking.

When we walked in to both the school and the care home she was swarmed by the kids all of whom wanted a hug and some attention. So heartwarming.

She also took me to one of the villages that Destiny Rescue works in where many of the children come from. Poverty, alcoholism and out of control gambling are all evident.

Looking in the eyes of the villagers I could see the sadness. Some preferred to look away. Life for some of them must seem so hopeless…. so difficult. Yet, with the efforts of people like Chris and her incredible team of volunteers and staff, many children are finding hope and opportunity for a future. A future that does not include prostitution but instead includes employment and an enriching contribution to society.

But as Chris points out, she is just one of many who volunteer in Cambodia for Destiny Rescue. Her friend Rhonda, an accomplished professional also from Australia, has used much of her holiday time to come help and although is heading home soon, already has plans to come back again. And the Project Manager at Kampong Cham, Cambodia gave up a real estate business and moved his wife and 4 children to do this work. Thank you Chris, Rhonda and everyone at Destiny Rescue for what you do! You inspire me.

To learn more about Destiny Rescue check out this link: www.destinyrescue.org

Irrawaddy Dolphins – Going Going Gone?

Boat Used for Dolphin Viewing on the Mekong River, Cambodia

It seems that no matter where we go on Earth today there are species at risk of extinction. Asiatic Lions and Tigers in India and Giant Pandas in China get most of the press, but the International Union for the Conservation of Nature estimates that there are thousands of species (most not so charismatic) on the verge of disappearing from planet Earth.

And yes, Cambodia has species at risk as well.

Irrawaddy Dolphins on the Mekong River, Cambodia

A number of years ago the Baiji or Chinese River Dolphin, a freshwater species found in the waters of the Yangtze River, was the species often cited as the most endangered marine mammal in the world. Today, the Baiji is considered extinct as none have been seen in the past 5 years or so.

Another rare species that can be seen on a 190km stretch of the Mekong River between Cambodia and Laos is the Irrawaddy Dolphin (Orcaella brevirostris). The species is primarily found in Southeast Asia and inhabits estuaries and mangrove areas as well as river systems. There are an estimated 6000 Irrawaddy Dolphins in the world today but the distribution of the species is patchy and small isolated populations are becoming very much at risk.

The population in Kalimantan in Indonesia may be as low as 34 animals while the Mekong River Irrawaddy Dolphin population is estimated at less than 100.

I left Siem Reap by bus to get to Kratie, a small town on the shores of the Mekong famous for gorgeous sunsets and also for being the best place in Cambodia to see the Irrawaddy Dolphin. This small population, like many of the other sub-populations, is severely threatened by fisheries bycatch and habitat degradation.

In Kratie I met a local guide who offered to not only take me to see the dolphins but also to show me around the Kratie area (on both sides of the river) and even invited me for lunch at his family home.

Irrawaddy Dolphin, Mekong River, Cambodia

We planned the day to arrive in Kampi, the small community north of Kratie where the dolphins seem to spend much of their time, in the afternoon which is apparently the best time to see them. The dolphins are visible in this section of river particularly in the dry season when waters are low, due to the deep pools in the river.

I was the only tourist when we arrived so I paid my fee and hopped in a small boat and went out to see if I could spot a dolphin or two. I was not disappointed. Not long after pushing off from shore I heard the ‘pffffffft’ of a dolphin coming to the surface for a breath of air. Then another… and another. They were tough to get photos of but I saw many.

Irrawaddy Dolphins Feeding in the Mekong River, Cambodia

Probably the highlight was when a small group of dolphins was feeding. There was a major splashing at the surface and then I saw a fish come whizzing out of the river flying horizontally through the air at high velocity apparently having been thrown (head flip I guess) by a dolphin. Amazing!

It was magical to spend time on the Mighty Mekong listening to the dolphins surfacing periodically while fishermen and others went about their business. What a fabulous afternoon. I hope other people will be able to enjoy the same experience for years to come.

Sign in Local Village Explaining to Fishermen about the Irrawaddy Dolphins

Tonle Sap Lake - Cambodia

After Angkor Wat the number 2 destination for visitors to northern Cambodia has to be the floating villages of Tonle Sap Lake. The way it was described in the guidebook didn’t make it sound appealing at all and I almost gave it a miss, but I am so glad that I made the effort to check it out.

Tonle Sap Lake is the biological heart of Cambodia. Its waters are amongst the most productive (in terms of fish production) on the planet which has to do with its connection to the mighty Mekong River.

Most regions of Asia have a dry season and a wet. During the dry season Tonle Sap Lake is low while in the wet it can be VERY VERY high (and that is why many homes adjacent to the river are built on stilts)! This is due to the swelling of the waters of the Mekong which as the river expands in volume the waters push up into the Tonle Sap River where they meet, in fact reversing the flow of the river, and eventually into Tonle Sap Lake bringing with it tons of sediment and nutrients which feed into the lake and contribute to its incredible productivity.

Tonle Sap Lake in late May (now) is low (despite daily rains) but there is still a hive of activity of boats, fishers, tourists, villagers etc. In fact the water was so low when I went out to see the lake the other day that boat captains needed to follow very narrow channels in the canal that leads to the village otherwise they would get stuck (which many did!).


At the floating village there was a school, fish farms, crocodile farms, and dozens and dozens of floating homes. The residents include native Cambodians but there also are many from nearby Vietnam.

As we were exploring the floating village a boat paddled up with a mom and a few kids. I couldn’t see what they were doing at first but as the boat approached I saw that two of the children had snakes draped around their necks. To be honest I was hesitant to take any photos as I would much prefer the snakes to be in the wild rather than kept in a box to show to tourists. Seeing the beautiful kids tugged at my heart strings and I did succumb. As soon as they left the snakes were put away and the kids grabbed their Barbie dolls.