Friday, June 8, 2012

Irrawaddy Dolphins – Going Going Gone?

Boat Used for Dolphin Viewing on the Mekong River, Cambodia
It seems that no matter where we go on Earth today there are species at risk of extinction. Asiatic Lions and Tigers in India and Giant Pandas in China get most of the press, but the International Union for the Conservation of Nature estimates that there are thousands of species (most not so charismatic) on the verge of disappearing from planet Earth.

And yes, Cambodia has species at risk as well.

Irrawaddy Dolphins on the Mekong River, Cambodia
A number of years ago the Baiji or Chinese River Dolphin, a freshwater species found in the waters of the Yangtze River, was the species often cited as the most endangered marine mammal in the world. Today, the Baiji is considered extinct as none have been seen in the past 5 years or so.

Another rare species that can be seen on a 190km stretch of the Mekong River between Cambodia and Laos is the Irrawaddy Dolphin (Orcaella brevirostris). The species is primarily found in Southeast Asia and inhabits estuaries and mangrove areas as well as river systems. There are an estimated 6000 Irrawaddy Dolphins in the world today but the distribution of the species is patchy and small isolated populations are becoming very much at risk.

The population in Kalimantan in Indonesia may be as low as 34 animals while the Mekong River Irrawaddy Dolphin population is estimated at less than 100.

I left Siem Reap by bus to get to Kratie, a small town on the shores of the Mekong famous for gorgeous sunsets and also for being the best place in Cambodia to see the Irrawaddy Dolphin. This small population, like many of the other sub-populations, is severely threatened by fisheries bycatch and habitat degradation.

In Kratie I met a local guide who offered to not only take me to see the dolphins but also to show me around the Kratie area (on both sides of the river) and even invited me for lunch at his family home.
Irrawaddy Dolphin, Mekong River, Cambodia

We planned the day to arrive in Kampi, the small community north of Kratie where the dolphins seem to spend much of their time, in the afternoon which is apparently the best time to see them. The dolphins are visible in this section of river particularly in the dry season when waters are low, due to the deep pools in the river.

I was the only tourist when we arrived so I paid my fee and hopped in a small boat and went out to see if I could spot a dolphin or two. I was not disappointed. Not long after pushing off from shore I heard the ‘pffffffft’ of a dolphin coming to the surface for a breath of air. Then another… and another. They were tough to get photos of but I saw many.

Irrawaddy Dolphins Feeding in the Mekong River, Cambodia
Probably the highlight was when a small group of dolphins was feeding. There was a major splashing at the surface and then I saw a fish come whizzing out of the river flying horizontally through the air at high velocity apparently having been thrown (head flip I guess) by a dolphin. Amazing!

It was magical to spend time on the Mighty Mekong listening to the dolphins surfacing periodically while fishermen and others went about their business. What a fabulous afternoon. I hope other people will be able to enjoy the same experience for years to come.
Sign in Local Village Explaining to Fishermen about the Irrawaddy Dolphins